There’s been a long tradition of metal thread embroidery in Assyut in Upper Egypt. The tradition’s has been around for centuries and is still, to a certain extent at least, flourishing today. The majority of the metal thread work uses silver thread on white, black or blue net, but there are also numerous examples of goldwork, particularly dating from the last century. Egyptian metal thread embroidery stems from the Coptic tradition, and uses specialised techniques to decorate shawls primarily intended for bridal wear. The subject matter, namely geometrically-patterned flowers, animals and women was worked on the diagonal using little strips of silvered metal or golden thread. They were originally sold by weight as the pieces incorporated real strips of silver and gold. Unsurprisingly, this practise has now been largely superseded as the pieces are now embroidered using plated metals.

The techniques involved in Egyptian metal thread embroidery are slightly different than those normally seen elsewhere on the African continent. The focus of the technique is to create a narrow S-shaped stud that both lies flat, and is strongly held within the net so it won’t snag. Patterns are then built up from combinations of these studs. It’s thought that this technique originated in Turkey and gradually spread to other areas of Ottoman influence, including Egypt. The method is similar to that used in India.

The embroiderer holds the fabric taut between his or her fingers. The eye of the needle is tied to one end of a short piece of sewing thread, and the other end is knotted into a loop. The end of a short length of metal thread, gold or silver, is hooked into this looped thread. The metal strip is then pulled through the fabric until only a short piece remains. This is then turned over to secure the strip to the fabric. The needle is then used at the secured end of the strip and then the metal strip is pulled through gently, leaving a loop on the surface of the fabric. The needle is finally passed under the metal strip which is then pulled tight, bent back and broken off with a quick twist. The fabric is finally rubbed with a smooth stone which flattens the silver or metal thread on to the fabric.